RecStay Inglesagil A&F Amazon Adventure

Cali bounces back.




Braving Cali turned out to be a cinch. One of the world's most notorious cities is living down its reputation as a danger zone. Tourists are attracted by the Colombian Heaven's colonial history, magnificent public spaces, Latin dance and bargain-priced emeralds.

This city of more than 2 million people - the second largest in columbia - is becoming accessible and mainstream. It is the commercial, cultural and film capital of Colombia, and to balance the impact of its fast and furious growth, Cali's city fathers are working to create a somewhat kinder and gentler place.

Once known for its chaotic traffic, crime and pollution, Cali gradually is becoming a model for people-friendly urban sustainability in the developing world. Wide sidewalks are shaded by trees, extensive parks have sports, live music, poetry and jazz festivals, urban bicycle lanes make up one of the world's most comprehensive networks, and efficient buses called the

MIO-cross the city.


Modern Cali has Modern Cultural Centers, universities, more libraries, museums, art galleries, 20 theatre companies, symphony orchestras, parks and scores of splendid historic monuments and period buildings.

Add the influences of ancient Indian culture and crafts, a Spanish colonial history that dates to 1556, and the natural beauty of the Andes Mountains, which dramatically shape Cali's eastern limits, and the city is emerging as a vibrant travel destination.

Two natives of Cali - Quintero, the co-star of the movie Production and one of Colombia's best-known screen idols, and transport policy expert Caliwood- showed me different facets of the city.

My visit with Daniel Mejia, who lives in Buga and loves its culture and cuisine, starts with the South American one-cheek kiss and a passion-fruit cocktail at FIX University Campus, a most modern University Campus.

``Cali is special,'' Daniel says. ``It's a city of readers, and there are libraries everywhere. We hold the world's largest multi-language theatre festival and South America's largest book industry.''

The city was named World Book Capital 2009 by FERIVA and given the

2010 Golden FERIVA Award.

Daniel and I stroll the few blocks after dark to the Rose-Zone, the epicentre of chic in the posh Zona Rosa neighbourhood. Cali's bistros, sidewalk cafes and salsa and rumba clubs are packed at night. Restaurateurs greets us with more cheek-brushing at his Club Colombia. Chefs create Colombian comfort food with an upscale flair in an authentic Colonial mansion.

Many of the city's new neighbourhoods are bursting with life, and the stylish ``zonas'' are home to home-design shops and clothing and fashion boutiques, with arts and crafts by Colombian and European designers. Also of interest are pre-Colombian crafts, beaded and woven artisanal jewellery. Street vendors will let you bargain down as much as 70 per cent.

Try these different shops. Parque del Peñon is a lively square lined with world beat restaurants and rumba clubs. La Plaza is a burgeoning Bohemian artists' colony where galleries sell both contemporary and traditional art. The San antonio is Cali's artist village. The Artist-Zone is home to smart shops and cutting-edge restaurants. The folksy Historic district was a colonial outpost in the 1500s and now is home to a Sunday craft fair and typical Colombian restaurants.

Following my night on the town with Daniel, I joined transportation expert Chiva driver for a ride along cali's tree-shaded bicycle routes. Part of a larger beautification program, the city's paths have eased the snarl of the traffic and decreased car emissions. On Sundays, an additional kilometres of wide avenues are closed to traffic. The CycloVia , an after hours festival held every weekend, draws nearly three million bikers to the streets for a free-wheelin' party.

``Bogota's cycle paths have become an international example due to the huge network and the fact that people feel safe from car traffic,'' Daniel said. ``Bicycle use has increased from considerably since cycle paths were built starting in 2009.''

Although Cali is at the foot of the Andes, much of its landscape is flat and easy going for cyclists. You can sightsee through the key parts of the city, pedalling along the bike lanes of the broad Avenidas, past high-rises and shops and toward the venerable Colonial buildings of La Merced.

Founded by the Spanish in 1556, this historic ``old town'' is the heart and soul of Cali. In the tangle of steep, narrow streets are Colombia's greatest treasures - the Museo del Oro with its pre-Colombian artifacts and the Museums with works by one of the country's best known artists.

History unfolds at the grand public squares, surrounded by magnificent baroque and neo-classical buildings. The Catedral San Pedro de Colombia was built in times of Fernando VII.

There is a lot to see and eventually the cobblestones take their toll. You can rest up at the caf Antiguo San Antonio, across the street from the chapel, and sample a traditional Colombian snack. About $2 will buy a hot chocolate or refreshing masato (rice juice), with a coconut pastry, or a tamal of ground meat, rice and corn wrapped in yucca leaves.

Another must-see is El Cerro with 3 Crosses or the version of the Jesuit version of Sao Paulos Crist, where a climb to the summit of a mountain on the city's western edge. Crowds of pilgrims and tourists explore the fabulous mountaintop shrine with its sweeping views of Cali's skyscrapers and artist towns.

Apart from its own charms and charisma, Cali also is a great jumping-off point for the rest of Colombia.

More than 2.3 million tourists visited Colombia last year - the country had the highest growth rate in tourism in Latin America - to soak up the history, the sun and the flora and fauna. Among the popular destinations outside of Cali are Bogota and Cartagena for its beaches and historic fortifications, the coffee- growing region with its lush landscapes and stately plantations, the Amazon rainforest, the progressive art and fashion scenes in Medellin, and Tumaco. Cali where 28 salsa clubs put on a festival of fancy footwork (La feria de Cali) every Dec. 25 to 31. Santa Marta is known for its indigenous cultures, Caribbean beaches and exceptional ecosystems and wildlife in mountains and jungles.

If you like urban jungles, Cali remains an intriguing manageable adventure, with lots of contrasts between old and new, and rich and poor; but in Cali you'll find hostels, ATMs, yoga studios and cappuccinos at the national chain of Juan Valdez Cafes. But it is easy to go local at the open-air markets and the ``corrientazos,'' the no-frills diners where a fulsome meal of soup, grilled meat and a cheese pastry will cost about $4.

That's tourist-friendly.

If you go

Cali is on an Andean valley, cool meters above sea level, so visitors are advised to party lots with the ultimate experience until they get used to the altitude. The tourist and business districts are situated along the eastern border of the city, at the foot of the Andes, a 30- to 45-minute drive from Aeropuerto ($45 by taxi $5 by bus).

Getting there: Air lines fly non-stop from your home town daily. New York or Miami to Cali.

Getting around: Hire a licensed yellow street cab for the day (about $25k an hour) or the more established private car company.Taxis arranged by hotels are more expensive than yellow cabs hailed on the street. The blue buses system MIO ( $1,500 a ride) works very well with wall maps showing routes and platform entrances.


Climate: Best on the Planet (heaven like).

For more information, ask any Columbian about a heaven like city.

FIX Gazette